By Adriana Gibbs @adrianagibbsm
Photos: Pixabay.com
Yes, it’s true. Everyone (or almost everyone) likes chocolate. Now, how do you know when it’s good or not? What are the characteristics of a quality square? What features indicate otherwise? The voices of several experts respond to Vivaelcacao.com about these and other curiosities.
To begin with, there are several variables that influence a square quality: the variety of cocoa, the soil where it comes from, the year of its harvesting (considering temperature, rainfall, daylights) fermentation and drying procedures as well as the typical process of making the chocolate.
Although there are standards for tasting (visual, tactile, olfactory and gustatory phases), the environment temperature and humidity (excessive heat or cold) should be taken into account since it could have a good or bad impact on the suitable enjoyment of a square. “One of the magic charms of chocolate consists in involving all the senses while appreciating its organoleptic properties” the master chocolate maker Sander Köenen says.
Visually, a good square will have a bright and even colour without any bubbles or cracks. “If it has whitish spots it means poor preservation” the cook Angelica Gonzalez posted in her Instagram @copacacao account.
Myths and Facts
Now, Claudia Franceschi, from Chocolates Franceschi, refutes the belief in visual analysis: the colour of chocolate does not have anything to do with its cocoa content. “Many believe that the darker the square is, the higher quality and, it is not necessarily so. It does not necessarily imply that a dark chocolate is better than a lighter one; In fact, there are several exceptionally good squares made with varieties of Criollo cocoa, and they are lighter than others made with some varieties of Trinitarian cocoa “.
To the touch – continuing the tasting – a good square must be firm, never sticky or greasy and, when dividing it, must have a minimum resistance. The breaking sound must be dry but brittle, what it’s called the “crack”.
Among the experts, it is considered a virtue to be expressive aromatically. Good chocolates, Angélica González says, offer a wide aromatic range of fruity, floral, spicy and nuts touches, among others.
For the chocolate maker Diego Ceballos, who belongs to Cacao de Origen team, the best way to evaluate a chocolate is with the palate. “The sight and nose help to ‘read’, but the mouth is fundamental, because the palate does not lie, “he says. When tasting, it must dissolve easily, continuously and completely. That is, without any trace of granularities. It is recommended that it is let melt in the mouth and to pay attention to the flavours (if there is balance among them). “If vanilla is the first flavour that appears, it might be a delicious product, but with little sensory effect on the palate.” In this statement Ceballos refers to another indicator of a good chocolate: permanence. It is detailed by Claudia Franceschi: when a chocolate is melted in the mouth it is necessary to pay attention to how long its sensations remain. “A good bar should have a minimum permanence of 15 minutes, some quite good bars give organoleptic sensation that can remain for 45 minutes,” she says.
The importance of the label
Ceballos invites #chocolatelovers to read the labels carefully: “Generally, a good quality handmade chocolate will indicate on the label: the producer’s name, the variety of grain used in that square, its provenance, the percentage of cocoa”. And the thing is that for this maker it represents “more than a sweet, chocolate is a source of pleasure which trains the palate and awakens in the memory gustatory references linked to culture.”
Well, paraphrasing the author André Gide, as final remarks: the aromas of chocolate are not similar at all. Its colour is dark and deep as the land. Its taste is so, but so amazing that it only heals by tasting it once more.
Instagram network references for the promotions:
Claudia Franceschi: @claudiafranceschichoco
Angélica González: @copacacao
Diego Ceballos: @ 3textures
Sander Köenen: @sanderchocolatier
