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Chocolates Paria: the fruit of happiness

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Texto: Erika Paz

Fotos: Raymar Velásquez / María Mercedes Rodríguez

Cocoa makes happy whoever sows it, that’s what Alida Quintero thinks, who has 21 years in contact with the plant and the magic of Paria. She came to the peninsula because she wanted to provide a peaceful life to her two children. But, she also found a space that offered peace to her because the farm she bought at the entrance to the village Chacaracual, ten minutes from Rio Caribe in Sucre state, came with a cocoa crop. Since then her dream was changed and oriented towards the sweet smell of chocolate, not only followed by her but also by her small family.

Alida loves the plant, cherishes it and seeks that everyone knows why this is the most aromatic cocoa in Venezuela. She has prepared herself to multiplying a passion that is being taken up in the country after it had been the mainstay of its economy in colonial times.

She decided not only to create chocolate in his factory but also she began to receive visits in her little paradise in the plantation, where gold-in-grain is found guarded by large trees to providing it with shade. This is a medium size tree that needs a protection without being overwhelmed. This is the answer why a-hundred-year-old trunks are next to the thin cocoa trees.

Los productores de Paria hacen del chocolate su feliz razón de ser

The visiting groups walk along the field learning from hostess’ voice or any of her employees’ that this used to be the sustenance of the country in the past, and that it’s time to resume its course. In Paria the harvest takes place between November and March, but Alida explains that Cahacaracual area is so generous because since 2013 they have harvested pods all year through. It is picked when it is ripe (becomes yellow) and then it is taken to a rug made with banana leaves, where fermentation takes place. “Everything depends on fermentation” the chocolate manufacturer explains “this makes the final product softer, more aromatic and tastier” This is a very thorough and precise process brought by Corsicans. Kernels are turned around every three days to complete six, for taking them to the sun.

Paria en un sabor: chocolate
Paria in a flavor: chocolate

Fruitful soil that can still give further

Only 1% of Chocolates Paria production utilizes cocoa planted in this farm. The rest is bought to local producers. This chocolate tastes better because the fermentation process is done organically, without any chemicals. The inhabitants of this land that owns a sea embracing the mountains share the harvest with yucca and banana trees. They know that the essential one becomes sweet. However, it has not achieved its ideal development yet. There are other small handicraft fabrics in the area, but Alida’s is the largest one. It produces five ton per month, but thanks to its growth the demand raised to twenty. She recalls that when everything started she used to visit every store to offer her product. “Unfortunately, today we have to leave customers out because we cannot cover their demand”. Our product is distributed through supermarkets, taverns and gourmet food stores in Venezuela, as well as their own store located in a shopping centre in Caracas.

Diversos productos ofrecidos por Chocolates Paria

The company in Sucre state, apart from having a shop for selling products and a factory, where daily they receive bags with cocoa to be dried, toasted, derailed and grinded. In Chocolates Paria neither natural fat is extracted from the kernels or soy lecithin added. The nibs are heated in their own butter for ten hours leaving the liquor to be tempered afterwards “under the adequate conditions it crystallizes to obtain a black, shiny chocolate which could be divided accurately.”

The tourists visit is almost over when they are taken to the packaging room where they can observe how the squares are wrapped as per their different percentages in ecological wrapping material, closely related to the surrounding nature.

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Finally, they can taste and buy chocolates when visit the store, the dream of a woman who changed the Andean mountains for the blue sea. The best way to understand her love affair with Sucre state and its fruit is through the product she obtains from it. Smiling Alida says that “cocoa has theobromine, an alkaloid that makes neurotransmitters stimulate and generate excitement in people.” For her, chocolate is the source of happiness, and the driving force that changed her life. “When I got here I was not a chocolatier, and still I do not consider myself as such, but I know I have made an important progress.” She says that because she is well aware of the quality product she handles, which is processed in an organic way without any artificial flavour and emulsified with its own material. In short, Alida concludes, “It is very well grinded and made with love”.

Paria es también área de mar y esparcimiento

Mantuano: “The passion for making chocolate bars”

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By Maria Mercedes Rodriguez Z. / Liliana Elias

Swirling around Venezuela through its chocolates is a unique and wonderful experience. Our country is valued for its cocoa and its chocolatiers, being increasingly prepared and respected worldwide.

Mantuano Chocolates is a sample of that talent approaching excellence every day through tablets flavoured and aromatised with fantastic ingredients to produce what is known as “Bar to Bar”. From the hot pepper and sea salt up to jobito pepper and sarrapia beans, all of them allow you to go deep into a world of new flavours and as ours as the utilised cocoa.

Currently, Mantuano also joins the movement Bean to Bar (from seed to the bar) which, for the last few years, has been the source of much talk-and taste- in Venezuela as well as other places. By means of this process, the company manages to get even closer to the producer and handle the processing of cocoa to become it into chocolate

Giovanni Conversi
Giovanni Conversi

Giovanni Conversi, the artist behind Mantuano Chocolates

Giovanni Conversi, president of Mantuano Chocolates, is a master of chocolate, who has developed the experience that gives to work together with personalities like Maria Fernanda Di Giacobbe. He enjoys the treasure of youth and the experience in his profession. He is the kind of people who shows peace and gets the feeling that everything will be always alright. He is also accompanied by the fortune of creating his tablets in a colonial house, which recalls that distant Caracas of red roofed houses and peaceful streets, with spectacular gardens and wooden and past stairs, with aromas strolling among their steps, inviting to enter the laboratory where magic occurs.

Inside the laboratory, being in front of dozens of tablets of different flavours, creative and beautiful packaging, it is unavoidable giving the space that a smile deserves to be part of the scenery. Silence and temperate climate are suitable for creating a peaceful ambience where, while an assistant was packaging tablets, we interviewed Giovanni, seeking to learn more about the structure of a company that does not step back. Its goal is success.

Explosive flavours and new proposals such as the “Bean to Bar”
Explosive flavours and new proposals such as the “Bean to Bar”

From great cocoa to Mantuano

The name Mantuano was always linked to the history of cocoa in Venezuela, since the arrival of Spaniards to Venezuela until now where many haciendas still preserve that name. “The name Mantuano conveys our traditional flavours, flavours that were mixed and become into our chocolates,” Giovanni says.

This brand has been dedicated to making us proud of the name Venezuela since its beginning, just over two years ago. The company expansion set in less than six months throughout Venezuela. Likewise, at present it is also found in Buenos Aires, Bogota, New York, Vancouver, Milan, and even Sydney.

The cocoa used comes from Barlovento, Miranda state, and it is a delicious Trinitarian. Its strengths are highlighted by Conversi, who claims that this seed produces a chocolate as tasty as aromatic which blends perfectly with his finished creations.

Mantuano Chocolates and its creative packaging
Mantuano Chocolates and its creative packaging

Growth and variety

Currently Mantuano develops expansion plans at national level, working closely with some licensed from IESA’s Marketing Postgraduate, what will allow it to increase its presence in Venezuela. It is done with passion and perseverance as a ritual in each tablet.

The range of flavours that Mantuano has can only be overcome by its creator’s imagination. Giovanni Conversi is an artist who seeks to surprise an audience avid of good cocoa and new proposals. His emblem tablet is the sea salt one, followed by the sarrapia one, chocolate 70%, orange criollo, earl grey, ginger, coffee, hot peppers, almonds, candied fruits, granola, lemon and, last but not least, white chocolate with peanuts.

Mantuano has a tradition. It develops a special edition each month. Among the latest it stands out a chocolate bar 72% cocoa, issued for the launching of Venezuelan painter Onofre Frias’ exhibition.

Packaging the delicious tablets
Packaging the delicious tablets

Venezuela has been for the last two decades, a country where who does not know where to find opportunities could not cope with the crisis. For master chocolatiers and companies dedicated to this art, maintaining quality standards is essential for positioning. Chocolates Mantuano assumes this with utmost importance. The result is excellence as well as a unique flavour that allows it to have hopes of country’s progress, a little chocolate square at a time.

You can contact Chocolates Mantuano by their social networks

Instagram: @mantuanochocolate

Twitter: @mantuanochoco

 

More and better cocoa in Barlovento by the hand of Chocolates El Rey

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By Juan Pablo Crespo

Barlovento is to cocoa as El Rey is to chocolate. However, as Barlovento is much more than cocoa, this Venezuelan company with almost 90 years of history is also much more than their internationally awarded high-quality product.

Beyond the conquest of the world palate by Chocolates El Rey it is necessary to look behind to see those men and women increasingly engaged with a high production and productivity of cocoa, a pairing that boosts a ripple effect in which everyone wins.

In the sub-region of Barlovento, specifically in the municipality Acevedo, Chocolates El Rey has continuously shown over time that social responsibility and good agricultural practices can walk hand in hand. In fact, they intertwine and produce results as tangible as waves, Devils of Yare’s masks or the drums resounding in Barlovento during Saint John festivities.

In Acevedo, agriculture is the main economic activity and, of course, cocoa raises the baton in a natural green spectacle as fertile as warm and humid. There, Chocolates El Rey assists through a programme named “Más y mejor cacao” (More and Better Cocoa) about 1,200 people linked to the seed, as representatives of 300 families ancestrally connected with the work of Barlovento of cultivating the “food of gods”.

For the producers, the tropical fruit and chocolate are as a sacred apostolate
For the producers, the tropical fruit and chocolate are as a sacred apostolate

Hand in hand with the producer

“Basically, what we do is to provide comprehensive care tools thus performance and plantations production may be improved,” explains Francisco Betancourt, Agricultural Engineer and head of the company’s Unit of Agricultural Management which uses 100% Venezuelan cacao, fermented, sun-dried and processed through cutting-edge technology.

The programme “More and Better Cocoa” has made possible the rehabilitation of 150 hectares per year, where production has been even doubled in some cases. “There were some areas in Barlovento with a production range from 250 to 300 kilos per hectare, but now their productions range from 500 to 600 kilos per hectare,” explains Betancourt, an expert in plant breeding with a Master in Cocoa Cultivation in Mountain Conditions from the University of Guantánamo.

In other cases the rehabilitation plan has allowed to obtain productions ranging from 800 to 900 kilos of cocoa per hectare, and increasing.

As a head of the Agricultural Management Unit of Chocolates El Rey, Betancourt’s professional life is focused on meeting the needs of cocoa producers. For him and his working team, the tropical fruit and chocolate are as a sacred apostolate. “Cocoa goes far beyond the seed or the plant. In fact, it is about human beings who deal with a culture, going through a way of feeling and working in such a wonderful world.”

Francisco Betancourt, Agricultural Engineer and head of the company’s Unit of Agricultural Management
Francisco Betancourt, Agricultural Engineer and head of the company’s Unit of Agricultural Management

Edges for a joint success

When production and productivity are improved, it is boosted a profit that seeps up all the cocoa family. Hence, Chocolates El Rey launches several united edges, such as agronomy edge (rehabilitation) and organizational edge. The latter allows producers to create and structure the historic cooperative system (cayapa). “We also have the marketing edge, where producers who belong to our programme receive bonus for the quality of their cocoa. In this sense, we mean a fine aroma cocoa, “said Betancourt from Barlovento, Miranda State, Venezuela.

“We also have the productive infrastructure edge in order to build or improve processing units as appropriate, which are parts of drying and fermentation structures which allow the producer to increase quality of the grain as well as cocoa prices, as a result.”

Although Chocolates El Rey pays more to cocoa producers, it gets a raw material of the highest quality in return. “We do not use intermediaries (traffickers). We carry out direct commercial transactions using the platform of an institution called Aprocao (cooperative), “said Betancourt.

Rolling dryers used in Barlovento
Rolling dryers used in Barlovento

A suitable process

The joint efforts company-producers turn into making a world-class chocolate by using good agricultural practices as a seal of guarantee. Although it is true that Venezuela has the best cocoa in the world, to become this reality it is necessary to process it adequately. Chocolates El Rey, with its program “More and Better Cocoa” carries out along with its allies in the field the monitoring, tracking and control of the whole process of fermentation and fermenting doughs.

“We make a whole fermentation protocol that allows us to enhance an average cocoa to a very high quality one. We refer to a cocoa approximately 76% of fermentation, a mould to a lower level of 3%, a cocoa whose plain grains, sprouts and insect bites are not more than 3%, and also with humidity content below 8% “says Betancourt.

An ideal fermentation is more than essential because in this phase there are chemical reactions and changes in the grain to improving its organoleptic features, typical of fermented cocoa. “This step is fundamental for the production of high range chocolates. World-class chocolates are made with cocoa class F1 or fermented cocoas” says the Agricultural Engineer graduated from the Central University of Venezuela.

Carenero, a very popular type of cocoa from Miranda State.
Carenero, a very popular type of cocoa from Miranda State.

Honour to perseverance

The outcome of the process in which art and science combine is historically known as cocoa Carenero Superior, with excellent colours, aromas and flavours. It is important to recall that since colonial times this cocoa has had a great demand in the world for obtaining a supreme chocolate.

With the logbook of good agricultural practices and environmental protection (sustainable cultivation that promotes natural cycles without using pesticides or fertilizers) taken as a focal point by the producer, Chocolates El Rey at present exhibits in its display cabinets, and as a Venezuelan pride, awards that appoint the company as the only Latin American representative on the list of “Top 50 Chocolates in the World” (2011) in “Good Living Guide”. A year later, Chocolates El Rey was awarded the gold medal for its white chocolate Icoa Carenero Superior in the “International Chocolate Awards”. Thanks to these and other awards, the company has been globally acknowledged as a pioneer in the country in the use of a single type of cocoa for making fine chocolates.

Likewise, social responsibility and the programme “More and Better Cocoa” are also implemented, and according Betancourt, in all cocoa production areas in the country from west to east, passing through the Venezuelan South.

Thus, Chocolates El Rey and producers are engaged in a symbiotic relationship with one of its focal points is in Barlovento what incidentally, etymologically means “where the wind comes from”, but we might add that it is also a land where one of the best cocoas in the world comes from. Of course, provided that it is handled with the required international standards.

(Español) Mazorcas sanas: cómo combatir las plagas

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Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.

Christmas Masses … with hot chocolate!

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From December 16 to December 24, this celebration takes place in Catholic churches in Venezuela, a tradition that comes from the rich mestizo culture, which in addition to preparing Baby Jesus’ nativity within the families, it favours the gathering of neighbours and relatives, who share all or several of the nine masses, ending on 24th with the so-called rooster’s mass.

Traditionally, these masses are held around 5 a.m., before sunrise, a custom that has varied in many urban areas but that is still kept in many places country wide. The community awakens to rang out of church bells and still in the dark, people approach the church for the liturgical celebration, accompanied by Christmas carols.

But the December cold, the “Pacheco”, as the old local people from Caracas named it, calls on the hot chocolate, which used to be sold outside the church, along with pastries, sweet breads, cakes, cream punches, and even “Calentaíto”, in the Andean zones. Christmas masses and chocolate are an essential duo, which still persists in many areas of the country.